50mph winds and snow halt summit attempt On Mt Mgoun
Mt Mgoun is not well known but at 4068m/13,346’ it is the second highest peak in North Africa, second only to Mt Toubkal; both are in Morocco.
The aim for this rather mature group (average age was 50!) of Territorial’s was to cross the High Atlas mountains from south to north summiting Mt Mgoun in the process, in 6 days. The Mgoun Massif is big, remote and with some serious altitude issues. As we were to find out, the weather conditions were unpredictable. We were completely self-contained, having hired a few mules to carry the large volume of food supplies needed for the duration.
Having arrived in Marrakech, the long 8 hr road move to the southern side of the High Atlas made us realise just how vast and remote this place was; it was huge! With the exception of the two Leaders, this 14 person group had very little experience of such conditions or the environment for a prolonged period of time.
During the first 2 days of trekking, we passed through some stunning low level countryside including several Berber villages, which highlighted what a simple life these wonderful, friendly people led. We paddled our way through several kilometres of river as it weaved its way through a gorge, flanked by 300’ sheer walls and wondered how deep this would get when the water flowed for real! When we arrived at our second night’s campsite, we were within sight of our first 3000m Pass; it looked imposing and the weather duly changed!
Day 3 was the first of a series of long days. With the sun beating down, it took several hours to clear the Tizi el Fougani Pass, a stop for lunch before we crossed another 3000m Pass and then a delightful descent down to a campsite very close to a fast flowing river. Just to remind us we were in the mountains, it rained. Thankfully, our tents were good.
We were now at 2600m and were beginning to get into high altitude territory. Day 4 would take us to 2900m and place us at the base of Mgoun. It was a long day, following the river but blighted by high winds and driving rain (face-stinging hail at times). We were forced to cross the river several times; boots off, sandals on! We passed some nomadic camels grazing, which was a strange sight but typical of this remote region. A break in the weather allowed us to erect tents and then catch sight of the summit of Mgoun covered in light snow. It’s a big day tomorrow; time for a rest, an appreciation of what lies ahead and some preparation.
An early start is required; we set off in semi light, daysacks loaded with food, water and waterproofs! It isn’t long before we can see the campsite way below us and hit pockets of snow that require some care and a lesson in snow arrest should anyone slip and find themselves sliding down! We continue ascending; the wind increases and the snow began to fall. We crossed the snow line at about 3700m and continued to ascend in deeper and deeper snow. The summit remained agonisingly out of sight in the thick cloud.
A rest was in order and this allowed the two Leaders Maj’s Terry Crosby and Woo Allen to assess the situation. The altimeter read 3800m and the wind was gusting so much it knocked one or two people off balance. With the elements against us, the decision was taken to descend and abort the summit attempt.
Several hours later, the group had descended out of the harsh weather conditions and re-routed around to the intended campsite for the night, next to a mountain Refuge. Although we were out of the worst weather, there was no respite in the challenges that faced the group. It rained hard that evening and a few group members were ill due to the altitude or accumulative fatigue. A good night’s rest was needed as we still had some work to do in getting over another 3500m Pass the following day.
We awoke to sunshine, high winds but a fully functioning group! A cracking breakfast inside the Refuge was welcoming before we set off to clear the final Pass. True to form, we were hit by driving rain on the ascent but once across, we appeared to hit the better weather aided by a big descent, which brought warmer temperatures.
The icing on the cake was realising that a surprise night in a mountain Gite was waiting for us. Warm showers, comfortable seats with a nice meal and a windless, rainless night too; bliss!
Military Adventure Training provides superb and challenging opportunities. This particular route, with its remoteness (we hardly saw another soul), the high altitude and the challenging weather conditions provided a tough test for this mainly novice group. It was tackled with a huge amount of enthusiasm, team work and mutual support. The benefits to the Territorial Army from such an adventure in the promotion of such activities to others cannot be measured. Our gratitude go to the Ulysses Trust and our other sponsors and supporters for making this possible.
Major Terry Crosby, Exped Leader