1131 – ‘Colac Dragon’ – Italy, Austria

3RWELSH again ventured to the Alps to conduct via ferrata and klettersteig in the Dolomites of Northern Italy and Southern Austria. This would be an expedition of two halves; long mountain via ferratas in Italy, short technical klettersteigs in Austria – something for everyone we hoped.

Summer can come late to the Dolomites so the expedition was timed to avoid any lingering snow at the top of routes and hence a departure date in late July. This seemed to work as all the walk-offs that we used in the Dolomites were snow-free. We based ourselves in Canazei and as there were novices in the group, we began with the ever-popular Brigata Tridentina, a long Grade 3B in the nearby Grupo Corvara. Everyone coped easily with the more technical sections and we looked forward with relish to more challenging outings. Next we chose the Delle Trincee in the Grupo Arabba. This historical route is approached via cable car from the valley floor and is effectively a traverse along a ridge followed by a walk back on tracks to the cable car station. Graded 4B, technicalities begin immediately and not for the first time in my life did I stand and wait as some out of condition ferratist struggled up the first steep section. Weather was not good on this day with rain and sleet at times. We took shelter till it eased and pushed on to the end via the tunnels that characterise the route’s second half. The route follows a ridge that was the scene of some extremely fierce fighting between the Italians and Austrians during WW1 and many small artefacts can be found just off the path on the return journey; tins, barbed wire, shrapnel, canister shot etc. One of the areas we passed on the walk back is called Colineta del Muerta (or the col of death) – an open area of ground completely overlooked and dominated by the enemy positions on the ridge above – one can only imagine what it was like to have tried to fight and survive on that exposed piece of ground.

Our next route was the one that had given our expedition its name, the dei Finanzieri or Colac. A fun and spectacular grade 3C, the route is reached again by cable and then a short walk-in. Starting benignly, the route follows easy-angled slabs and corners before rearing-up unexpectedly and following a near-vertical corner on stemples which keep switching from one side to the other. It feels impressive and it is! The steep section tops out onto a beautifully delicate slab and thereafter technicalities ease to the summit. Lunch on top and then a grade 1B walk-off. The weather now deteriorated on us and we elected to make the move to Austria where we would be on sport klettersteigs at lower altitudes.

Stopping to do the Klettersteig Lander Sportklettersteig (Kleinwalsertal) (Grade C-D) en route, we based ourselves at a friendly family campsite near Silz. We next headed for the Ehrwalder Klettersteig (Grade D-E) on a peerless sunny day. Again, the route started technically before settling down a bit. This was all in preparation for a magnificent steep slab as a finale. The slab is climbed entirely on pins and the route zig-zags its way up near-vertical terrain to pop you out not 5 minutes walk from a hut and refreshment. Next it was the Otztal and a pair of routes done in a day – the picturesque Lehner Wasserfall (Grade D-E) and the steep roadside Reinhard Schiestl (Grade D). The former finishes with a long easy traverse leading into a demanding but short overhang (which can be bypassed). The Reinhard Schiestl is just steep throughout and has a long airy traverse as a finale.

For our final day we warmed up with Crazy Eddie (Grade D) near Silz before driving the hour towards Zirl and the king of all klettersteigs – the aptly named Kaiser Max (Grade E). Kaiser Max is just audacious and a must for any experienced climber. Steep, technical, long, exposed, committing, fascinating – it requires a steady head and a strong upper body. We began well and were nearing the grotto when we saw large storm clouds racing down the valley with thunder rumbling in the wake, flashes of lightning began to light the peaks in the near distance. At the grotto which is roughly halfway, we took stock and quickly decided that to continue would be foolhardy and we took the option of baling off that now was available. We scuttled down the grotto’s tourist path and soon were soaked to the skin by torrential rain. An unglamorous end to our expedition, but better safe to climb another day!

Overall COLAC DRAGON was a great success and introduced 3 novices to the delights of via ferrata and klettersteig. Our gratitude to the Trustees of The Ulysses Trust for their generous financial support and for those of you that haven’t had a go – what are you waiting for?

Maj MA LAING, 3RWELSH