Akkastugorna to Hukejaure. 52km 9 1/2hrs.
Akkastugorna was the first manned mountain hut of my journey. I’m nearing Easter and cabins are officially opening. After three nights alone the handful of people at the cabin made it seem busy. My friend Håkon had told me that the Swedish do discipline very well, remember the Karoliner Army further south? The Swedish Cavalry were famous for using shock tactics and an ability to charge in very close formation, requiring huge discipline. Last night I learnt Swedish hut guardians also like their discipline when he came round with a clip board doing his nightly checks. I was told off for having my boots inside the permitted fire perimeter and reminded to blow my candle out before sleeping. It reminded me that I don’t like externally imposed discipline, particularly when the sense gets lost in the rule. I prefer dry boots. I managed not to burn the cabin down and set out early across 12km of black glistening lake ice in minus 28C. First stop Ritsem for coffee and microwave pizza before continuing northward on well marked scooter trails to one of the most idyllic mountain cabins so far-Hukejaure. One of my longest days but rewarded by an alpenrose sunset lighting up the skyline of towering peaks I pass through in the next few days.